Gallery Image

Painting Problem Solver

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Alligatoring Cracked Caulk Edge Swell Galvanized Peeling Burning Masonry & Brick Peeling,
Algae Cracking Plywood Efflorescence Mildew Wax Bleed Hardboard Siding,
Blistering Darkening Flaking Peeling Leaching Redwood Peeling,
Chalking Eave Peeling Frosting Tannin Staining   Asbestos Shingles


Page 1

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Alligatoring

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Algae

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Blistering

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Chalking

 

Alligatoring and Wrinkling

Cause

Alligatoring and wrinkling is caused by excessive buildup of paint. Eventually, multiple cracking of the paint film occurs as seasonal temperature variations inhibit expansion and contraction of the paint film with the substrate. Simultaneous to cracking, the inability of the thick paint film to expand and contract with the substrate results in adhesion loss. Paint applied to this surface will invariably accelerate flaking of the total film down to the substrate.

Wrinkling is caused by applying paint in excess of the recommended wet film thickness and by applying paint containing strong solvents to already dry paint films. These solvents cause the underlying paint film to dissolve and expanded (wrinkle) under the newly applied paint. The result is a wrinkled finish.

Solution

Wrinkled surfaces can be power-sanded to a smooth surface. Surfaces that show alligatoring or cracking must have the paint stripped to the bare wood by power sanding, use of paint remover, or heating gun and scraper.

Bare wood that has been exposed to weathering must be sanded to fresh wood. Exposure of sanded fresh wood to sunlight for more than a one-week period will result in peeling of the newly applied paint.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

Prime bare wood with the A-100 Exterior Latex or Acrylic Wood Primer

Two coats of Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

 

Algae

Cause

Algae are green chlorophyll-containing organisms that obtain their nutrition by photosynthesis. Like mildew, algae will flourish where there is an adequate source of moisture. It grows almost exclusively outdoors. Cement-based products are more prone than other substrates to support algae growth.

Solution

Provide drainage to rid immediate area of excess ground moisture. Locate and correct source of moisture that is saturating vertical surfaces. Remove algae growth with a soft brush and household bleach. Flush area with clean water and allow to dry thoroughly. Remove loose paint to a sound surface. Sand weathered wood to fresh wood.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

One coat A-100 Alkyd exterior wood primer

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim paint

 

Blistering/Peeling

Cause

Moisture

Poor surface preparation by failing to remove chalk residue

Factory primer on new substrate is hard, glossy, or contaminated.

Application of latex paint below minimum application temperature.

Solution

Remove loose paint with pressurized water.

Scrape areas that are loose but resist removal by water blasting.

Eliminate moisture by determining the need for:

a. Caulking- cracks, holes, and seams

b. Wedge vents

c. Attic louvers

d. Exhaust fans

Scrape off paint from problem area and then sand to fresh wood, feathering edges.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

Prime bare wood with Sherwin-Williams A-100 Latex or Alkyd Exterior Wood Primer.

Apply two coats of Sherwin-Williams topcoat, preferably latex.

 

Chalking

Cause

Slight chalking of a weathered paint film is normal and desirable. Application of new paint over severe chalk will cause peeling problems.

Aluminum siding can develop an excessively thick coat and will require power washing to insure complete chalk removal.

Solution

Remove chalk by washing siding with detergent and water. If some chalk remains after first washing, then wash again for complete removal. Rinse well with clear water. Allow to dry thoroughly.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

-Aluminum siding (flat or smooth)

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint (Flat or Satin only)

-Aluminum siding (embossed)

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim paint (Flat, Satin, or Gloss)

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Cracked Caulk

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Plywood Cracking

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Darkening

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Eave Peeling

Glossary Of Painting Terms

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Cracking Over Caulk

Cause

When paint is applied over a partially dried bead of caulk, the paint dries, first forming a film. As the caulk continues to dry, it separates from the underside of the paint film. Ultimately, the paint film cracks.

Conditions that affect the drying time for caulks are air, surface or caulk temperatures below 40F; high humidity; and joints in excess of 1/2'' in width or depth.

Solution

Surfaces to be sealed should be sound, dry, and free of oils, dust, mortar spatter, release agents, old caulk, bitumen, old paint or other contaminants. Remove flaky, loose, and powdery material from the joint.

Apply caulk only when temperature of surrounding air, surfaces to be caulked, and caulk are all above 40F. Do not apply when rain or freezing temperatures are expected. Joints should not be more than 1/2" in width or depth. Joints deeper than 1/2'' should be filled within 1/2" of the surface with polyethylene rod or closed cell urethane foam. Fill the remaining joint with caulk, and tool within 5 minutes of application.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

One coat A-100 Latex or Alkyd Exterior Wood Primer

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint.

 

Plywood Cracking

Cause

Plywood cracks from its expansion and contraction with changing moisture content. Plywood is prone to cracking because of its original method of manufacture involving peeling thin sheets of wood from logs. Stresses are induced which later show up as cracking. Many small fissures are produced in films of paints and stains that have been applied to insufficiently dry plywood. The edges of these cracks protrude upward and can be felt as sharp burrs. Subsequently, this coating my become detached from the edges of the cracks and lead to flaking.

Solution

New wood: To prevent cracking of newly installed plywood, sand and prime with Sherwin-Williams Latex Exterior Wood Primer.

Repaint: If cracking is severe, replace the wood, for this is an unpaintable surface.

If the cracking is not extensive, sand surface smooth. The plywood must be thoroughly dry. Apply latex primer.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

-New Wood

One coat A-100 Latex Exterior Wood Primer

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

-Repaint

Spot prime with A-100 Latex Exterior Wood Primer

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

 

Darkening and Decaying of Wood

Cause

Darkening of wood is caused by ultraviolet radiation. This can take place in wood that has never been coated with a protective coating. It can also occur under clear varnishes and lightly pigmented stains. Different degrees of darkening can occur on different woods. If moisture is penetrates into the wood, varnish coatings will peel due to wood decomposition under the coating. Woods that are exposed to weather are not protected against wood-destroying organisms. Eventually the wood ceases to be a coatable surface.

Solution

New woods must not be exposed to harmful sun rays for extended time periods. Paint and stain adhesion performance is enhanced when the new wood is painted or stained immediately after installation. Wood that has been allowed to darken (decompose) must be sanded to fresh wood. Wood that cannot be sanded to fresh wood must be replaced.

Coatings can be applied to treated woods after the moisture content has dropped to a paintable level. Semi-transparent stains must be used on all horizontal (walk-on) surfaces. Paints, semi-transparent and solid color stains can be used on vertical surfaces.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

Two coats WoodScapes Exterior Acrylic Solid Color Stain or

One coat A-100 Alkyd Exterior Wood Primer

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim paint (Flat, Stain, or Gloss)

-Decks and porches

Cuprinol Deck Care Products

 

Under-Eave Peeling

Cause

Lack of inter-coat adhesion can occur if:

Paints are applied to old hard and glossy paint films.

Salts which were formed during the life of the previous coat were not removed before the new coat of paint was applied. These salts form an invisible film preventing a bond with a new topcoat. This leads to loss of adhesion and peeling.

Solution

Sand surface and wash all protected areas with a strong detergent solution and water. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and allow to dry.

Recommended Sherwin Williams Coating System

One coat A-100 Alkyd Exterior Wood Primer

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint.

 

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Edgeswell

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Efflorescence

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Flaking

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Frosting

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Edge Swell (Hardboard Siding)

Cause

The process of making hardboard into lap siding makes the board edges much more absorbent to moisture than the faces. Rain, melting snow, and condensation run down the face of the siding and collect at the drip or bottom edge. If the edges are not properly sealed, this moisture can be absorbed into the board. The expansion and contraction of the hardboard caused by seasonal temperature changes and moisture absorption create larger spaces in the board which lead to board decomposition and delamination. Other contributors to moisture penetration are areas where nail heads have fractured the board surface and butt ends that were cut and not properly sealed during installation.

Solution

Severely damaged boards must be replaced. Some board decomposition can be tolerated, however, these will show as major blemishes on the newly applied topcoat. The use of sandpaper should be done sparingly so as not to break the board surface. Spot priming followed by a full coat of primer is recommended after all traces of surface wax have been removed.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

One coat A-100 Alkyd Exterior Wood Primer

Two Coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

 

Efflorescence

Cause

Efflorescence is often seen as a white fluffy deposit of salt crystals on cementious wall surfaces. It depends on the presence of salt and moisture. The growth of crystals will continue as long as both are present. The salts are present in the mortar blocks or concrete structure and the moisture is usually attributable to some building defect. When emanating from mortar in brick or block buildings, efflorescence will appear as narrow bands corresponding to mortar joints,

Solution

Painting should be delayed if efflorescence continues. Salts should be removed by mechanical brushing. The use of water to remove efflorescence will only aggravate the defect. Repair areas where moisture penetrated the wall. Allow walls to dry thoroughly.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

One coat Loxon Exterior Acrylic masonry Primer

Two coats Loxon Exterior Acrylic Masonry Paint.

 

Flaking

Cause

Flaking is the lifting of paint from the underlying surface in the form of flakes.

It is generally preceded by cracking or checking and will occur over different surfaces. When it occurs over wood, it is usually found on those boards that have an excessive amount of "flat" hard grain pattern. This flat grain pattern is smooth, hard, and non-porous. Highly pigmented paints crack and eventually flake when applied to this type of surface. They cannot accommodate the large extremes of expansion and contraction of the wood that are caused by seasonal weather changes. Because of the poor paint penetration into the hard, flat grain, flaking will occur on these areas.

Solution

A light sanding to fresh wood followed by application of a high quality undercoater is recommended. Wood must not be allowed to weather prior to coating. Replace boards that have an excessive amount of flat grain patterns with boards that have an edge grain. (e.g., boards with equal amounts of narrow hard and soft grain patterns).

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

One coat A-100 Alkyd or Latex Exterior Wood Primer

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

 

Frosting

Cause

Frosting is the formation of white surface crystals on paint surfaces. When present, these crystals are most noticeable on dark colors and form in areas that are protected from the cleansing action of rainfall. The crystals form when the paint is exposed to excessive moisture (dew, condensation, rain, etc.) or cool temperatures during the curing process and create a surface condition called "frosting."

Solution

Apply paint to all surfaces during climatic conditions that allow proper curing of the paint film. If frosting, use a garden hose to flush crystal formations with warm tap water. Water-soluble crystals will disappear. Follow-up water flushing may be required at later dates and eventually crystal formation will cease. If crystals are not water-soluble, then other actions are required. Allow surface to dry thoroughly . Using medium grit sanding paper, lightly sand crystals away until original color of paint film reappears. Remove all loose dust and apply a uniform coat of A-100 Alkyd Wood Primer. This alkyd undercoater will act as a barrier coat preventing the formation of future frosting. Apply latex or alkyd topcoat.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

One "barrier" coat of A-100 Alkyd Wood Primer

One or two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

 

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Page 4

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Galvanized Peeling

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Mildew

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Peeling

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Tannin Staining

 

 

Peeling on Galvanized Metal

Cause

As a rule, paints do not adhere well to smooth metal surfaces. Galvanized metal, a product used to make corrugated sheets, gutters, and downspouts, is not only smooth, but the metal is coated with a thin to heavy layer of oil to prevent white rust.

When oily galvanized steel is painted during cold and highly humid conditions, the curing of the paint film is retarded, resulting in wrinkling and loss of adhesion.

Alkyd paints that are applied to galvanized metal will produce an acceptable paint film initially, but will quickly fail. The zinc of the galvanize will chemically react with the alkyd binder of the paint, which leads to extreme paint peeling.

When galvanized metal is allowed to remain exposed to the atmosphere, the protective zinc metal coating will oxidize into a white rust until eventually the zinc metal is depleted. The underlying steel will then rust to the offensive red color.

Solution

The protective layer of oil must be completely removed. Solvent wiping using a water soluble cleaning agent or VM&P naphtha is recommended for small manageable areas. Many solvents, including mineral spirits, leave a thin layer of residue which leads to adhesion failure of the paint film.

Weathers galvanize develops a layer of "white rust" which must be removed to ensure a good adhesion of the applied paint. Wire brushing is recommended.

Iron rust must be removed by wire brushing followed by sanding with a productive grit sandpaper. Severely rusted gutters should be replaced.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

-Galvanized (new)

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

-Galvanized (weathered)

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

-Galvanized (red rust)

One coat DTM Primer/Finish

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

 

Mildew

Cause

The appearance of mildew depends on various conditions, which are:

Continuously high humidity. As the humidity increases, mildew growth becomes more rapid.

High average temperature. Optimum temperature for mildew growth is 77F.

Poor ventilation. Still air increase mildew growth.

Composition of surface. Mildew will grow on any surface that provides a nutrient, even dirt.

Light colors of paint film. Colors that do not absorb the sun's heat provide a surface for mildew growth. Dark colors become hot and discourage mildew growth.

Solution

Wash mildewed areas with a solution of one part household bleach and three parts water. This will destroy mildew and bleach stains caused by mildew growth. Apply solution by brush or a garden sprayer apparatus. Heavy mildew may require additional applications, and scrubbing may be required. Flush area with clean water to remove bleach solution. Allow to dry thoroughly,

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

Spot prime bare areas

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim paint.

 

Peeling

Cause

Peeling is caused by poor surface preparation, and refers to the removal of strips or sheets of paint due to loss of adhesion. The loss of adhesion could be the result of: painting over a coating containing wax; an excess buildup of moisture within the wood; painting over an old, smooth coating; or painting over heavy chalk surfaces.

Other surface conditions or contaminants known to affect the adhesion of newly applied topcoats are oil, grease, various forms of pollution such as dust, dirt, and mildew, applying paint over hard glossy surfaces and excessively thick film topcoats.

Peeling may also be the result of applying latex paint below its recommended application temperature.

Solution

Proper surface preparation will prevent peeling of the topcoat. If a peeling situation persists, the loose paint must be completely removed. Prepare surface by removing or abrading the problem surface. Sand all bare wood to fresh wood.

Remove surface contaminants with naptha solvent, detergents, and water. Glossy surfaces must be scuff sanded. All surfaces must be rinsed with clean water and allowed to dry thoroughly, Exposed wood areas must be sanded to fresh wood and primed with an alkyd or latex primer.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

One coat A-100 Exterior Wood Primer

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

 

Tannin Staining

Cause

Red-colored woods contain a water soluble dye called tannin. Tannin is not soluble in most solvents. Application of latex topcoats directly to these red-colored woods may develop a red-colored stain on the finish coat. If the dry film is intact and discoloration occurs at a later date, then staining is being caused by water moisture within the board wall. This moisture will migrate and eventually carry staining substances from within the wood to the surface of the paint film.

Some cedar woods contain colored dyes such as tannin which is water soluble, and other color extracts which are soluble in mineral spirits. In these instances, a primer that has discolored should be spot tested with a second coat of primer or a latex topcoat to determine which will successfully block future discoloration.

Solution

If dry film is intact and discoloration is occurring at a later date, then internal moisture is the culprit. The moisture source must be located and corrected. Remove stains by washing with a solution of equal parts alcohol and water. Allow to dry thoroughly.

New red-colored woods must be sealed with an undercoater that will function as a barrier coat, preventing staining of the topcoat. This undercoater can be either a solvent or latex primer, depending on severity of available tannin dyes in the wood.

Although the latex primer contains water, the product chemistry is designed to minimize surface discoloration by tannin bleed. Extreme cases of tannin bleed may require one or two coats of alkyd primer to prevent discoloration.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

Light-colored woods

One coat A-100 Latex or Alkyd Exterior Wood Primer

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint (Flat, Satin, or Gloss).

[ Back To Page 1. ]

 

Page 5

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Surfacant Leaching

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Burning

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Wax Bleed

Back To Page 1.

 

Surfactant Leaching

Cause

Many different water-soluble materials are used in the manufacture of latex emulsion paints. When these paints are applied during hot and humid periods and expected to dry during cool evenings, the painted surface will cool, allowing dew to form. This accumulated moisture on a paint surface whose curing is temporarily delayed will extract and concentrate different water soluble materials from within the paint at the paint surface. As the water evaporates, a concentrated residue is left behind, causing staining, unsightly runs, and gloss patterns.

Solution

Apply paint to all surfaces during climatic conditions that allow proper curing of the paint film. When "surfactant leaching" happens, flush with clean water immediately before the stains have sufficient time to set up or harden. Light scrubbing with a soft brush is acceptable. If stains cannot be removed in this manner, then repainting will be necessary during more favorable weather conditions.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

One coat Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

 

Burning

Cause

Stucco and mortar joints contain hydrated or "hot" lime, a dry compound added to improve the workability of these materials. Different mortars are compounded with different amounts of "hot" lime, depending on the end use of the mortar. This problem is then made worse by more "hot" lime being added at the job site.

The alkalinity of mortar, cement mixes, and concrete is expressed numerically by pH readings. The pH of fresh cementious materials is 13 to 14. It takes approximately 30 days for fresh cement materials to drop to an approximate pH of 9. A pH of 9 is less alkaline than a pH of 13, and a coating has a greater assurance of success when applied to a less alkaline surface.

Once these cement walls are cured, the introduction of moisture into these walls will reactivate the high pH alkalinity, resulting in efflorescence, blistering, and peeling of the paint film.

Solution

When damp areas are found on old surfaces, the source of moisture intrusion must be repaired. The surface should then be prepared by removing. chalk, efflorescence, and damaged paint film, and must be thoroughly dry before applying new paint.

Both new and aged unpainted walls must be clean and free of moisture and efflorescence.

Paint products must be chosen with care. The alkalinity of "hot" surfaces will destroy an alkyd or oil product within 6 months. A vinyl acrylic coating will perform slightly better; however, it will ultimately fail. A 100% acrylic coating will give the best service performance.

Flat latex 100% acrylic coatings will perform best because of their ability to allow vapor transmission through the dry paint film. Non-permeable films (e.g, gloss paints) may blister when applied over the same damp condition.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

One coat Loxon Exterior Acrylic Masonry Primer

Two coats Loxon Exterior Acrylic Masonry paint.

 

Wax Bleed

Cause

The problem appears as a splotchy dirt collection. This discoloration can resemble mildew growth, yet will not change color when washed with household bleach. This problem is not the fault of the paint firm. The non-uniform color is dirt collection that adheres to a component in the hardboard siding. This material migrates to the surface of paints, altering the appearance in a detrimental manner. This foreign material has been identified as a hydrocarbon wax.

Solution

New siding: In severe cases, wax can be felt with he fingers as an oily or waxy substance. Apply a few drops of water to the board surface. If the water beads up and runs off the board, a wax condition is indicated and must be removed.

Repaint old siding: The discoloration can be identified by applying household bleach to rule out possible mildew, tannin, or sulfide staining. Bleaching will occur if these conditions are present. The presence of wax will not be affected by bleach. Follow above directions by applying a few drops of water to establish the presence of wax.

In extreme cases of wax buildup, a clean cloth saturated with mineral spirits or VM&P naptha solvent should be used to remove the deposits. Both rags and VM&P naptha solvent should be changed frequently. An alternative method is to mix one gallon of water with one cup of TSP Substitute and scrub the entire surface with a scrub brush or high-pressure water wash. Rinse thoroughly with plain water. Rescrub areas where water continues to bead up on the surface to that wax deposits are removed. Allow surface to dry thoroughly before applying new coating.

Recommended Sherwin-Williams Coating System

One coat A-100 Alkyd Exterior Wood Primer

Two coats Exterior Latex House and Trim Paint

[ Back To Page 1. ]

Page 6

Concrete Floor Peeling

Masonry & Brick Peeling

Hardboard Siding

Redwood Peeling

Asbestos Shingles

Lap Marks

Uneven Gloss

Poor Hiding

Plaster Peeling

 

 

 

PROBLEM: Peeling from Concrete Floors

CAUSE: Concrete floors present numerous potential adhesion problems for coatings. Concrete is a highly alkaline material which reacts chemically with oil or alkyd based finishes to weaken their adhesive bond. Concrete also transmits moisture bringing soluble salts, to the surface (efflorescence). This will gradually generate a sandy or dust-like condition at the surface. Grade level or sub-surface floors are continually subjected to moisture penetration. All concrete should be cast over a vapor barrier. Sub-surface concrete should also be cast over a generous level of gravel with further means to remove water when conditions are severe. Moisture is the primary cause for adhesion failure. Other possible causes include hard-troweled concrete which presents a physical barrier to adhesion by not permitting penetration of coatings. Older concrete can become crumbly, and accumulations of grease or oil create a barrier limiting adhesion.

SOLUTION: Remove paint by scraping and sanding. Clean floor by scrubbing with hot water and a strong detergent solution. Avoid mild dishwashing detergents. These contain skin softening ingredients which interfere with paint adhesion. It may be necessary to use chemical stripper, if the above procedure fails to remove the paint. Follow the directions carefully. Floors that have been subjected to long term oil and grease must be aggressively scrubbed with a grease dissolving compound, such as Benjamin Moore M83 Industrial Maintenance Oil and Grease Emulsifier. Follow the label directions carefully. In all cases, rinse the floor thoroughly. Allow the surface to dry for several days. The next step, called etching, requires protective goggles, boots and rubber gloves to be worn during the process. Mop on 10% solution of muriatic acid and water on clean floor.

ALWAYS MIX ACID INTO THE WATER, NEVER MIX WATER INTO ACID. Allow solution to remain on surface until bubbling ceases (10 to 15 minutes). Flush surface with water and dry completely. When floor is properly etched, it should resemble texture of fine sandpaper. Etching neutralizes the alkaline surface and provides a better bond. It also helps remove salt deposits (called laitance) that can occur on concrete surfaces. Sand off any crumbly areas of loose concrete. The floor should now be ready to paint.

 

PROBLEM: Peeling from Masonry and Brick

CAUSE: A common cause of peeling on surfaces composed of mortar, brick, building block or concrete is efflorescence, where soluble salts are present. When dissolved by water, they are carried to the surface and remain after the water has evaporated. These salts can push paint away from the surface and peeling results. Efflorescence occurs on brick walls of new construction. A common building practice is to treat new brick or concrete with muriatic acid, rinsing with water to clean away excess mortar. Rinsing removes only those salts on or near the surface. After painting, salts remaining within the bricks will absorb the moisture and travel to the surface, causing peeling. Peeling can also occur when alkyd or oil paint is applied over unetched concrete. Alkyd resins that come in contact with an alkaline surface form a soap film between the concrete surface and the coating, called saponification. This will cause softness and loss of adhesion of the alkyd coating.

SOLUTION: If efflorescence is evident, it must be removed before repainting. First, remove all flaking or chalking paint from the damaged area by wire brushing or sandblasting. If necessary, try applying a solution of 5% muriatic acid or undiluted vinegar. Rinse with clean water. Fill all cracks with masonry patching compound, latex concrete patch, or caulking compound. If the surface is very porous, apply an alkali-resistant primer or block filler. Cover with latex house paint. To prevent recurrence of efflorescence on interior walls, the exterior walls should be sealed. NOTE: Extraneous water sources must be removed before painting (e.g. migration at ground level, often caused by poor drainage).

 

PROBLEM: Peeling From Hardboard Siding

CAUSE: Hardboard siding is reconstituted natural wood. It is fabricated by reducing natural wood to fibers, adding resins, and then pressing the fibers together into panels. It can be either tempered or standard. Tempered board is denser and has a higher moisture resistance. Standard hardboard should not be used outdoors in areas where it will be directly exposed to the weather. Peeling is often due to poor maintenance of the coated surface. It generally originates at butt joints and drip edges. Water contact directly with bare hardboard in these areas eventually penetrates into the board to repeatedly permeate and expand the compressed wood fibers in the board. The swelling process is irreversible, resulting in delamination of both the paint film and the board.

SOLUTION: Whether supplied bare or factory primed, hardboard must be primed. All joints or bare edges must be primed and caulked to avoid contact with water. Coated hardboard surfaces require regular maintenance to detect possible areas of deterioration or cracking before board failure occurs on a large scale. Where cracking or peeling is observed, it MUST be scraped and sanded immediately, then primed, caulked if necessary, and topcoated. All loose paint must be removed, and the edges of the areas of good paint should be sanded smooth.

 

PROBLEM: Peeling From Mill-Glazed Western Red Cedar or Redwood Siding

CAUSE: Mill-glaze occurs on smooth, flat-grained western red cedar and occasionally on redwood. Controversy exists over the exact cause of this condition, but the general belief is that it occurs as a result of planing and/or drying the lumber. During the milling or planing process, overheating of the flat- grained smooth siding may bring water soluble resins to the surface creating a hard, varnish-like glaze.

SOLUTION: If the surface is unpainted, it is advisable to roughen smooth siding slightly prior to priming. Two coats of primer may be necessary where severe staining exists. A waiting period of 24 hours after application of first primer coat is recommended before applying second coat and/or finish coat. Tannic acid stains will penetrate first coat of primer leaving brownish streaks or rings. Refer to "Cedar Stain" for additional information. If stains do occur, reprime stained spot and dry thoroughly before applying finish coat. For repainting over mill glaze problem areas, remove the failed coating areas by pressure washing or hand scrapping. Sand and prime as recommended above. Newly installed siding should be sanded and primed as soon as possible. Ultraviolet rays from the sun tend to degrade the integrity of the wood's surface. A 50% loss in adhesion occurs on western red cedar weathered for 16 weeks prior to finishing. Bare weathered siding should be sanded prior to coating to remove loose, dead wood fibers caused by extended exposure.

 

PROBLEM: Peeling From Asbestos Shingles

CAUSE: After years of wear, asbestos cement siding can develop a surface layer of fine dust similar to chalk causing paint to peel.

SOLUTION: CHECK FOR LOCAL OR STATE REGULATIONS REGARDING THE REMOVAL OF ASBESTOS CONTAINING PRODUCTS BEFORE TRYING TO CURE THIS PROBLEM! Loose paint should be removed by pressure washing. Use extreme caution when scraping or sanding asbestos shingles. It is extremely important to wear protective gear to prevent inhaling asbestos dust particles. It is equally important to prevent fibers and dust from entering occupied areas and to prevent accumulations of dust being left for tracking into these areas. After the shingles have completely dried, check for structural integrity. If they remain soft, no coating will offer long term service.

 

PROBLEM: Lap Marks

CAUSE: Lap marks sometimes occur when wet and dry layers overlap during application of paint or stain. This nonuniform appearance can be caused by: working too long in one area when painting; too much heat or draft during application; too porous a surface; or the use of an improper thinner. Too much heat or draft causes a rapid loss of solvent or water and speeds up the set time, resulting in a thicker film wherever overlapping occurs.

SOLUTION: Another coat of paint, spread uniformly, is necessary to cover lap marks. If the finish coat is relatively transparent or the surface is overly porous, a second coat or a primer coat may be necessary. To avoid lap marks, do not paint one section of a large area from top to bottom completely. Instead, paint in small enough sections to maintain a wet edge. (Top to bottom painting is appropriate on shingle surfaces since they provide natural breaking points.) Painting on hot, windy days accelerates drying time. Avoid painting under these conditions. Add thinner sparingly if it is needed.

 

PROBLEM: Uneven Gloss

CAUSE: Surfaces with varying porosity may, after painting appear nonuniform in sheen. This problem is sometimes referred to as "flashing". Uneven application can result in varying film thicknesses that may cause uneven gloss. Fog-strike or moisture on the paint film during drying can locally also affect gloss. Uneven gloss may also be caused by an unsealed porous surface. In this case, a primer-sealer is necessary to prepare the surface. Areas surrounding nail heads and wall studs tend to retain gloss because metal conducts heat and speeds up drying time. In addition, painting over a paint film that is not thoroughly dry or that is too soft can cause uneven gloss.

SOLUTION: If the surface is extremely porous, a prime coat is necessary. Otherwise, another finish coat, spread uniformly, should correct the problem. Some unevenness can be expected on rough surfaces, but additional coats tend to give better uniformity. If moisture contact has caused flatting or if temperature variation has occurred, apply another coat of paint when moisture is not present and/or when changes in temperature are less likely. If the undercoat was not dry, allow the flatted paint to dry hard and apply another finish coat.  

 

PROBLEM: Poor Hiding Of Colors

CAUSE: Possible causes of poor hiding include over-extended spreading, a radical color change, uneven application, excessive thinning, or inadequate mixing of paint. Certain colors such as yellow, red, and orange tones inherently offer weaker hiding.

SOLUTION: Most paints are designed to be applied as received. Thinning, if necessary, should be at a minimum. An additional coat of the same material and color, applied with a good quality tool at the recommended spreading rate, will usually provide good hiding. The exceptions are extreme color changes, extremely porous surfaces, and certain deep, clear colors. These require a prime coat tinted to the approximate color of the finish coat. Benjamin Moore color chips and color cards use a triangle symbol to identify deep, clear colors in the Moor-O-Matic III system that require a tinted deep base primer to obtain good hiding. Don't forget to follow your dealer's recommendation for type and size of applicators and purchase good quality tools.  

 

PROBLEM: Peeling From Plaster Walls

CAUSE: Paint peeling from plaster could be the result chalking of the surface. This chalking can be caused by alkali, moisture, or insufficient wet troweling of the white coat. Another reason for peeling is the presence of a glue size (from removed wallpaper), which absorbs water, underneath the paint.

SOLUTION: New plaster should be primed AFTER 30 days curing. This will allow for reduction in moisture and alkali content. After curing and before priming, the plaster should be wiped with a damp cloth to remove powder and dust. Peeling areas should be scraped down to a sound surface. Smooth the scraped edges with sand paper. If peeling is severe, then all the paint should be removed. Otherwise the remaining coating will peel, thus causing the new coat to fail. Cracks and holes in plaster should be repaired before repainting. If patching is necessary, a water-mix patch should be used when the intended topcoat is latex. Oil based patching compounds sometimes bleed into latex. When using a water-mix patch, thoroughly dampen the surrounding edges of the damaged areas to prevent the plaster from absorbing moisture and becoming crumbly. If the surface is badly disintegrated, mount canvas or "hardboard" over the plaster. Apply primer before and after filling cracks and holes. Sand when dry.





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